Surfing huntington beach

I forgot to take a pic i wanted to start taking pics of my surf days and post them. Then i am going to talk about any of my rides..I mean if i catch of wave of course. LOL...
Anyways Berto Jason and i went to Huntington beach to expecting some good surf. Well what we got was big surf. The wave from shore looked smalled and mushy cause of the wind. But what was happening was that the sets where taking about 10-15 minutes in between so when we were on shore we must not have seen the sets come threw. I would say they were in the 4-8 foot range and had lots of power. They were not close outs though they were good waves and all lefts. Just how i like them!!!

My rides:
1st ride was my best drop and probably my biggest ever. Berto saw me drop in and he was hooting away haha it was fun. I took it straight and leaned back as hard as i could not to fall off cause the drop was pretty steep. Once I actually made it i was like holy cow now try and turn left. so i leaned forward and left and could not move the board fast enough before the back of the wave caught up. But it was a awesome drop and a pretty long ride straight out. Very please with this drop, i came back to the line up so stoked.

2nd Ride was much like the first probably cause it was right after my first ride. I was feeling good and saw another line coming and charged it hard right so i could get deep and get some speed to take it left. Yea sounds like i know what i am talking about doesn't it...Yep i have come a long way and i am really starting to understand what i am doing out there. Anyways i got pretty deep in this one and had tons of speed on my drop i was able to turn left and ride actually back up and down the face of the wave, it was awesome, i felt good and confident after that ride.

Over all a Great surf day, I made a few mistakes out there and i know i will do much better next time i just need to go out more on big days. I felt good paddling and my arms and shoulders feel good today, glad my shoulder is getting better and feeling back to normal. We will see what happens after i surf tomorrow and play in a Saturday and Sunday volleyball tourney.